Water Nymph again: Sat 13 March

Its my last day on Samui and I decide to hire a jeep to see the rest of the island and check out some of the waterfalls. The first one is disappointing (very small with a murky pool that I don't want to swim in). The 2nd and 3rd ones are close together and much better. At the first swimming hold there are lots of tourists but when one jeep load leave I'm left along for about 10 mins and I cam pretend to be a water nymph again. Bliss.

Some people then tell me about the next waterfall and they say it is even more impressive so I hike uphill a little further to find a very high waterfall with water that runs over giant boulders. I'm not sure the photo shows this very clearly though. I can't see a pool here however a Thai man asks if I want to swim and motions for me to carry on up the hill. I see a rope to help guide me and then realise he is following me. He jumps infront and then leads the way, helping me with his hand when it is very steep. I am a little wary, as it is just the two of us, but reckon it is probably his job to guide people.

It is about a 15 minute trek up a very steep route and I would never have found this pool on my own! We reach the pool and there is nobody else here at all. He flings off his shorts and shoes and does a running jump off a high boulder into the pool. I follow him in and the water is cooler than the last pool and it has an amazing view across the hills and down to the sea.

After my swim, while I dry off, my guide clears the leaves from the pool and then hops out and plucks a yellow flower off a tree for me to wear in my hair - it matches my outfit too! He probably does this for all the women but it does make me feel special.

After waterfalls I explore the beaches on the south of the island, stopping for a spicy prawn and squid salad in Bangkao, a small fishing community, and then later heading to Big John's Seafood place for dinner.

Big John's has come highly recommended in the Lonely Planet however to me it proves the inverse theory that seems to be the case in Thailand, that the less you pay for a meal, the better it is. I spend the most yet on a two course meal (about 10 quid to be fair!) and it is disappointing. I order their recommended 'the lovely tower' which is a glorified tall, thin spring roll, supposedly filled with prawn, squid and pork, but in reality filled just with pork. Then, I want Red Snapper or Sea Bass but the don't have any small fish so they recommend I order Barracuda. Unfortunately it tastes like swordfish and is too meaty and heavy for me. For the first time yet in Thailand, I cannot eat all my dinner.

The best bit about the location is that I witness a wedding on the beach and then get to watch the sunset and get some great photos of it.

Cycling around Chiang: 3 March

This is my main day to explore the city before starting my five day cooking course.

I practice hula hooping on the roof terrace before breakfast and then discover that the guest house has rice soup with chicken on the breakfast menu ... and it's delicious. Really light and fresh with tender chicken pieces and garlic oil (maybe the garlic is not such a good idea for breakfast).

I decide to hire a bike to save my feet and explore places outside the old city. Cycling inside the Old City is quite easy however it is surrounded by a moat and on either side of the moat is a very busy 2 - 3 lane road, each one way. I often find myself having to run my bike across the road. I also find it very hard to navigate as many of the roads are not named (and my Lonely Planet map appears to be wrong). It takes me and hour and a half to find the food market in the guide book and so they are packing up by the time I get there! I buy some Thai omelette from a street vendor outside which is light and tasty but a little salty. Inside the market I buy some spicy, dried fish snacks and the woman who sells them to me has a sister who lives in Brighton!

From the market I cycle to the Mai Ping river to take a boat trip on a Scorpion Tail boat. I'm the only passenger so I get the lovely Nu all to myself as my guide. She is very funny and we share a love for trees and birds. The trip is very tranquil and I hear a lot about the history of Chiang Mai. The boat trip is finished with a snack of sweet sticky coconut rice and very fresh, ripe mango (literally plucked from the tree in front of me).

I then eat lunch further down the river at The Gallery in a beautiful and peaceful setting. I'm not very hungry so I opt for two salad style starters, however even these are huge. Miang Kam (a favourite Thai dish of mine where you roll up chillis, lime, peanuts, coconut, ginger, shallot, dried shrimp and palm sugar paste in a betel leaf) and Green Papaya salad (their version comes with salted crab but the crabs are small and whole and taste more of salt than crab).

I visit another market after lunch where I mistakenly buy Tamarind pods thinking they are Longon. Emma introduced me to eating raw Tamarind and although I quite like it, it is not a favourite like sweet juicy Longons or Lychees. I now have a giant bag to eat! Considering it cost me about 10p I shouldn't complain.

After a rest back at the guest house and a change of clothes I cycle up to the university area which is supposed to be quite young and trendy. I am pleasantly surprised by what I find. The cycle there was horrendous (3 lane roads, lots of traffic) however either side of the main road, Nimmanhemin Road, are cute little boutiques in glass boxes and funky bars. All the Sois (or lanes) running off the main road are also packed with individual shops and art galleries. It is super modern and reminds me more of Tokyo.

On the roadside I see a street vendor selling something resembling deepfried meatballs. I'm not sure I want anything deepfried but I am keen to try one or two, so I just ask for 10 Baht's worth (less than 20p). He then proceeds to fill a bag with about 15 of the balls. I really didn't expect that many and I doubt I can eat them. He then gives me a choice of sweet or spicy sauce (I go for sweet) and hands them to me with a skewer. Well, these little meatballs are divine, and because they deflate a little before you eat them they are not as filling. I manage to eat them all however I'm not sure I'm going to manage dinner now.

Well, not until I spot the Roast Pork stall that is written about in the Lonely Planet. The stall hoarding has a pig on it, and all they sell are variations of roast pork dishes. I go for Roast Pork fried with basil and chilli on rice. All for only 30 Baht (about 50p!). Yet again it is a taste sensation (see photo).

After asking lots of people I finally find the Glass Onion bar which I've read about, and which I fancy having a cocktail in. It is very stylish in a New York kind of way with great lighting and retro yet modern furniture. I meet two US ex-pats in there, Brad (from Wisconsin) and Larry (from NYC) and they regale me with tales about living here and a local dodgy nightclub owner who died in dubious circumstances.